The MDA, cities, and commercial tree companies are continuing to watch for the beetle. Infested trees are being removed as soon as they are detected to reduce the spread to unaffected ash trees. Some communities are removing ash preventively, and some are using insecticides to protect valuable trees.  Most communities have or are developing a plan to minimize the impact of the beetle.

Recently there have been releases of  non-stinging Asian wasps for control of the emerald ash borer. This may eventually lower the beetle population, but this will not eliminate Emerald Ash Borer or save urban ash trees.  Untreated ash are very susceptible and without treatment will die.

What Can I Do For My Trees?

If you do nothing, your tree will eventually die. Rainbow Treecare will come out to look at your ash tree and help you determine what your best option is: treatment, removal, or replacement.

Treatment

There are products that will save your tree. Treatment costs over 10 years can be less than the cost to remove your tree. There are two good options available to treat preventively.

• Yearly Soil injections with XytectTM
• Bi-yearly trunk injections with Tree-ageTM

The fully-leafed ash tree in the foreground has been treated with Xytect to protect against Emerald Ash Borer.  The ash trees in the background have not been treated and are dead or dying.

If you are interested in ash borer treatment options, contact Rainbow Treecare and ask to meet with an arborist about your tree.

Removal & Replacement

Removing your tree before infestation will prevent an unsightly or potentially hazardous situation. A smaller tree is more easily removed and the costs will be lower. To maintain the heating, cooling and aesthetic values a tree offers, replanting of a different species is recommended.

If you would like to remove and replant a tree, the best time to do so is fall or spring. Southview crews will be removing and replacing ash trees this fall. For information contact customer service: 651-455-8238.

Soil Preparation is Key

Plants need food for healthy growth – nitrogen, phosphorus and potash (N, P, K for short).  Nitrogen is responsible for producing leaf growth and green leaves.  Growing plants need phorphorus.  Potash strengthens the plant.  Plants also need the proper pH level which controls how well the plants utilize the nutrients available in your soil.  There is no way to tell what nutrients are missing in your soil by just looking at it.  Soil should be tested periodically and is recommended in the spring and again in the fall.  You can do this in a couple of ways.  You can go to the University of Minnesota Soil Testing Laboratory website.  Information on how to submit a soil sample is available online.  There is a cost for this test and usually takes about two weeks.  Or, you can go to your local garden center and buy a soil test kit.  They range in price from $6-7 (one-time test kit) to $20 (multiple tests). 

Test for pH and nutrients

Either way, once you have the results, take the information back to the garden center and ask for the right product.  More is not better.  Too much of any one nutrient can actually harm plants.  By buying only what’s required, you will save money.  The same goes for fertilizers…less is more.  You can always add a second application of fertilizer but it’s difficult to undo the damage of too much.  Always follow the directions. 

Add compost, well-rotted manure, or peat moss into the soil.  All should be available at your garden center.  Organic matter improves drainage in clay soil and the water-holding capacity in sandy soils.  Till it into your garden bed about 9-12″ deep using a shovel, spade fork, or garden tiller.  After fluffing up the soil, turn on the sprinkler for a bit and then let the soil settle for about 24 hours before planting.

Using a garden tiller makes the job go faster

 Soil preparation takes a little time but the dividends will be big.  However, this may not be everyone’s cup of tea.  If you would like some help, contact us.  We have a crew just waiting to get their hands dirty!

Snow mold patches

Winter de-icing materials are hard on turf

The damage done by de-icing materials and snow plows should be taken care of as soon as the warmer temperatures of spring arrive.  These areas will require a little TLC, fresh soil, and seed or sod.   Don’t just throw down seed or sod and call it done.  Remove the dead grass and any debris.  Level the area.  Add fresh black soil then seed or sod.  In the seeded areas, don’t use pre-emergents or strong fertilizers.  A starter fertilizer is recommended.  Don’t forget to water the new areas regularly.  And here’s a money-saving, water-saving tip:  It is not necessary or recommended to water your lawn during the month of May unless it remains dry and/or the temperatures climb into the 80s or 90s for long stretches at a time.

If you have paver patios, walkways, or driveways, a little spring maintenance may be necessary.  Check the joints.  Do you see spaces between the pavers where sand should be?  Fresh sand should be swept into the joints before wind-blown seeds take root.

Rodent Damage on Trees and Shrubs

Examine trees and shrubs for rodent damage.  Snow provided excellent cover for the rabbits and voles this year.  Damage, as seen in the picture above, prevents water and nutrients from moving upward- eventually starving the tree or shrub.  You might see a less vigorous plant this year then more so next year.   Depending on how much damage occurred, you may want to consider replacing the plant.

One more note:  drainage.  Did you happen to notice puddles where they shouldn’t be – such as walkways and driveways?  Think about tackling this problem before next winter.  Drain tile and catch basins can be installed to encourage water to go where you want it to go…away from the house and any hardscapes.

If you need help repairing any of these winter damage issues,  contact us.  Our landscape care crew will gladly tackle these spring chores for you!